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The PineWood Racer software was designed to be flexible with ALL IBM compatible computer systems.   It is designed to be automatic and you don't need to know IRQ and DMA settings and strange settings like EPP, ECP, and SPP.   This is all taken care of for you.

This Hardware Installation page is devoted to the, installing of track sensors, interface, and connecting it to the track computer.   (when you get your PineWood Racer shipment please read the Software Setup (coming soon) instructions before installing the sensors onto your track.)

• How does it connect?
• Track Setup
  • Sensor Placement
  • Light Bar
  • Gate Switch

How does it connect?
The PineWood Racer interface is designed to connect to the Parallel Port (a.k.a. Printer port) of your computer.   To make the software work to it's fullest potential, you should have two ports installed on your system.   You can get a new port at your local computer store like Staples, and Best Buy, they can even install the port for you.

You simply need to connect the interface to Parallel Port  and run the software.  It will find the interface for you.   You don't need drivers or even need to tell the computer that you have the interface installed, just run the PineWood Racer software, and it's all automatic!

The interface connects to the track using two serial cables.  

The top and bottom (start and finish line) row of sensors will connect to the interface using a DB9 plugs and sockets.   The top sensors will connect before the twist and the bottom sensors will connect after the twist. See the following diagram image to help you see how the interface connects to the computer and other components.

(Click image to enlarge)

The best placement of the computer system would be at the top of the track.  So all cars that will race are entered into the computer before they are raced.   Though the system is designed to also allow entering of the cars that raced at the end of the track.   Assuming you will be using the computer at the top of the track you will need two serial cables.  One from the interface to the top sensors and one from the interface to the bottom of the track.   The top serial cable is usually about 6-12 feet long and the cable going to the bottom would be the length of the track plus a little.   This is why when you place your order and would like me to make serial cables for you I will need to know the length of your track.

Track Setup

Sensor Placement

Once installed you will have two rows of sensors.  One at the bottom (finish line) and a row at top (behind the starting line).   There are two different types of derby tracks.  One type is where the cars ride on a track and the other type is where the car rides between rails.  Throughout this documentation I will be referring to the "On Track" method.  But both track installation methods are the same.  The sensors should be placed as shown above.  The finish-line is shown in red and the sensors are the yellow stars.  The sensors should be placed at the bottom so the cars will pass over them and block out the light coming from the light bar.  

I recommend placating a 1x1 piece of wood under the track, this will be used to mount the sensors on.   This wood should be placed directly under the finish line and a hole drilled through the wood and track to allow the light to contact the sensor.

This will give you a little better view of the sensor placement.  The sensors are mounted in the hole and are not flush at the top.  This is to prevent light from other sources getting into the sensor.  With the sensor being further down in the hole, it makes it more accurate as it is only being activated by light straight above the sensor.  Once installed I recommend placing a piece of clear tape over the hole to prevent dirt from getting into the hole.

The sensors at the top of the track should be placed the same as the bottom.  But must be placed so it will be hidden from light when the cars are sitting on the start line.   DO NOT PLACE SENSORS ON THE START LINE!   I recommend you place a derby car on the track as if it was going to race and then make note as to the placement of it's front or rear axle.   And place a 1x1 block of wood under this location and install the sensors.    Place another light bar on top of the sensors just like you did on the bottom.   Also remember the top sensors are not to tell the computer when the cars start racing (this is what the gate switch is for) but are used to tell the computer what car is on what track.

Light Bar

The light bar is very easy to make.   It's simply an upside down box that is supported on it's sides.  In the box are two J type 60w light bulbs, the light coming out of the box will shine directly onto the sensors.  The only light coming out of the box should be coming out of the bottom pointing down.   There is wood on all three sides (even though this diagram shows only the back side with wood in it.   To help prevent the lights from over heating you may need to drill some holes at the top of the light bar to let the heat out.

Here are some images of the final installation.
(click image to enlarge)

Gate Switch

Side switch (notice little black box on the right)

Top switch (switch arm is facing down)

It does not really matter how the switch is placed onto the track.  The only thing that matters is the switch is closed when the gate is in it's down position.   But because the switch is wired in a N.C. (normally closed) configuration the switch will "close" when the switch is NOT pressed and it will be "open" when it is pressed.

Below is the same switch examples but with the gate in the down position.

Note: The switch is beside the bar that restrains the derby car.  Because of this the bar does not hit the switch.

Any more questions contact me at